In the winter of 2009, Louder Than 11 was approached by a strapping young lad by the name of Ronnie Dickson.  Ronnie is almost the same as every other climber out there.  He is very psyched to boulder all the time, push himself to climb harder, and devote his life to climbing rocks in the [...]

The summer in Boulder is coming to an end.  THANK GOD.  The drama and hype of Colorado summers can wear on a boulderer and this summer has been nothing short of CRAZY.  With the season coming to an end, climbers are heading back to their respective states and school is in full swing.  As a [...]

Preparing the crux sloper on Never Never Land (All photos courtesy of Ryan Silven) SUPER CHAOS! is loaded with projects and among the hundreds of new lines waiting to be put up was a gem of a bloc that needed to be done.  I first laid eyes on this tall and intimidating beauty a few [...]

The boulder, the myth, the legend…  Full Chaos (V10) does exist and I climbed it!  Flashed it in fact.  I have wanted to climb on this “secret” boulder for a long time and had always heard stories about its quality and how difficult it is to find.  Ryan Silven and I made it our mission [...]

Everyone is naming boulder fields these days so we have taken it upon ourselves to do the same.  SUPER CHAOS! is where the new goods are located and you have to say it loud or type it in all caps with an exclamation point… It’s the only way people will know that you are talking [...]

Its here!  The final installment of the Pogo series, Chapter 3!  The finale includes Carlo’s discovery of the Pogo with the help of a fresh set of new Pusher holds.  Carlo puts up the “dream pogo” boulder problem and demonstrates perfect form.  My favorite part is what we called the pogo matrix, where Carlo goes [...]

Chapter 2 of the Pogo video has arrived!  Day two of the three day Pogo extravaganza will give you the chapter we have dubbed “Discovery”.  Jonny Hork and Nic Sherman as scientists is quite priceless and I’m certain we will do more work with them in the future. Jonny’s rant at the end is one [...]

Hello Louder Than 11 fans!  We have done it again and this time with the help of Jonny Hork, Carlo Traversi, and Nic Sherman to create what we are calling “The Pogo, understanding a climbing move”.  This masterpiece of movement delves into the science behind the move with examples and shots from South Africa showing [...]

Well hello there!  More video of Rocky Mountain National Park!  This time its two rarely climbed boulders, one from Middle Chaos and one from Upper Chaos.  I consulted the sheriff of alpine bouldering and he told me that a problem I had done a few weeks back was the “wrong boulder” and I did not [...]

Louder Than 11 has been in a mad scramble to prepare for the trade show and now the pressure of competing has been added to the list of things to worry about over the next week and a half.  I have been climbing very little in the gym lately and I have mini panic attacks [...]

Not all the boulder problems at Rocky Mountain National Park are world class.  There are a few problems up there that are less than desirable and climbed very rarely but they are boulder problems none the less and should not be neglected.  One of these boulders that was on my “list” is called McFly (V10) [...]

Where do you find inspiration?  For Louder Than 11, inspiration comes from a wealth of creative outlets, many of which are similar to us in style but aim for an entirely different audience.  The Knife Show is just that and you can think of them as “the Louder Than 11 of snowboarding and skate”.  These [...]

Ryan Silven.  A stunning individual with a nack for heel hooks, long hair, and roof climbing has done it again.  He has established a fantastic V10 roof climb called Scoot’s Roof in Upper Upper Chaos, or as we like to call it “Super Chaos”, in RMNP.  Hike straight up from Mirkwood for about 25 minutes [...]

Leviathan Style (V12) Leviathan Style is an old V12 located in the Green 45 Sector in Upper Chaos.  The boulder rarely gets climbed and I have had my eye on it since the very first time I visited the area.  One very hard and huge start move leads you into some steep and crazy roof [...]

Ryan Silven and I made a video of one of the hardest boulder problems in the world, Clear Blue Skies (V12) at Mt. Evans.  Here is a short video detailing his personal struggle with the boulder problem and the darkness he had to overcome to send his project. I would like to share some photos [...]

I know how much everyone likes to hear Carlo and I talk so here is a video from a few weeks back of Carlo making the first ascent of Shapes and Sizes (V12).  I make a quick 2nd ascent with completely different beta but with similar difficulty.  Nic Oklobzija made a repeat of this line [...]

Tis’ the season for Rocky Mountain National Park sending and I have been on a quest for obscure blocs in the high country.  Kawa (V10) fits the bill perfectly.  Put up by Ben Safdi in 2005 and only repeated by a few passers by, this boulder had long been forgotten.  It was put up as [...]

During the World Cup in Vail a few weeks ago, I made a quick stop at an area called Red Cliff to check out some of the potential there and to try an unrepeated boulder on the Aircraft Carrier Bloc. The Aircraft Carrier is a giant boulder that has a nice selection of moderates an [...]

Guanella Pass is located west of Idaho Springs in Central Colorado and is home to some beautiful “Chaos Canyon” style granite.  The access to the boulders is extremely compromised by road construction at the moment and there are multiple sections of single lane gravel road ultimately ending at a closed section of the road exactly [...]

Mt. Evans is completely out of the snow, bone dry, and in perfect alpine season.  I hiked up to Area A last week and threw myself at a few of the less than desirable lines in the area like Blackie (V11) and Useless Tools (V8) to name a few.  I was able to send a [...]

Ute Pass is located outside of Colorado Spring near the famous NORAD in Cheyenne mountain and is home to some of the sharpest and least forgiving granite in the country.  I had heard tales of a very good and often unrepeated V11 there called The Green Lantern and heard that it was not nearly as [...]

Park Season is in full effect!  Rocky Mountain National Park is slowly emerging from the snow pack and the projects from last year are exposing themselves.  Psyche is very high and there is a mobilization of snow removal teams working diligently to reveal the classics and send hard after a winter of training.  Everyone seems [...]

Mens Finals Highlight Reel Womens Finals Highlight Reel The World Cup went down in Vail, Colorado this weekend and it was a blast.  I hopped in the car with Ryan Silven on Friday and we headed to the mountains to shoot some video, celebrate Carlo’s birthday, climb, and to hang out with friends.  Carlo, Ryan [...]

The Gandalf Boulders in Poudre Canyon offer some fantastic lines and some of the best rock quality in Colorado.  I spent a beautiful Saturday afternoon in the canyon with Max Zolotukhin, Carlo Traversi, Zach Sticcs, Ben Spannuth, and Ryan Silven.  The goal was to do all the boulders and we did just that including adding [...]

THIS IS IT!  The party to start the summer in Boulder off just right and its in North Boulder at the Nomad Theater this Saturday night at 11pm. A long overdue minimal techno event in Boulder, complete with San Francisco based DJ guest Superkonduktor… Presenting: • SUPERKONDUKTOR ** http://soundcloud.com/superkonduktor http://www.residentadvisor.net/dj/superkonduktor Born and bred in troubled [...]

The past week was a blur of route setting, event organization, audio/visual preparation, and just plain hard work.  The Battle in the Bubble went off on Friday evening with a red point “wild card” qualifying round at the Spot.  Any climber who did not receive an invitation to the exclusive event was required to qualify [...]

The Battle is happening in a big way on Friday and Saturday.  The GIANT Walltopia walls are built at the Boulder Reservoir and we begin setting the finals routes tomorrow.  The Pro setting team has already finished the Semi-Finals problems and they have been stripped for the Citizens team to come in and set the [...]

Walker Ranch, located behind Flagstaff Mountain, has one very amazing boulder and it goes by the name “Burnout”.  One of the best of the grade, Ryan Olson snatched up the First Ascent in the winter of 2007 and gave the boulder V12.  It is the granite squeeze test-piece you might have seen in Colorado Glow [...]

I got my birthday present a bit late but either way… the nail really did come off this time.  Enjoy round two with happy finish! Tomorrow we are moving the giant Walltopia wall from storage out to the Boulder Reservoir to begin construction.  Its gonna take over a dozen people the entire day to get [...]

I put together a promotional video for the Spot to help build some hype for the coming Battle in the Bubble competition going down on the 15th of May.  I was on scene to help unload the trucks that brought in the new wall from Walltopia and felt compelled to make a short video to [...]

I wanted one thing for my birthday this year…  I wished with all my heart that Carlo would yank out his dead and rotting fingernail.  Plain and simple.  Remove the nail by any means necessary.  I guess he gave it a good shot… Turning 26 really means nothing new.  Life goes on and I still [...]

The anticipation for the Battle in the Bubble is really heating up and the third promotional video for the event just dropped down through the tubes of the internet.  This segment deals with the route setting and the format for the event and gives the viewer a bit more depth and understanding of the differences [...]

Louder Than 11 traveled to the New River Gorge in West Virginia in December of 2009 to explore the potential that the area had to offer.  The mission: Develop exciting and hard boulder problems along the New River in the Blue Hole Sector of the Gorge.  Follow Nate Draughn, Jon Glassberg, and Carlo Traversi as [...]

A lot of people have come up to me in the past few months and told me that they love the videos that they see on Louder Than 11 and on my blog.  They enjoy the sending, the story lines, and the characters that are formed, but a lot of followers have been let down [...]

Here is the second installment of the video series that Cedar Wright has put together for the Spot to help promote the Battle In The Bubble! Demolition has started at the Spot to help make room for the giant Walltopia wall that will be installed after the comp… The hype is building….

Something big is happening in Boulder in the middle of May, 2010.  It’s called “The Battle in the Bubble” and it’s a PRO climbing event hosted by the Spot with finals held at the Boulder Reservoir on a giant outdoor wall designed by Walltopia, the same guys who did the Prometheus wall for the trade [...]

This week and last were spent in Eldorado Canyon soaking in the sun and climbing the dry rock.  I made an after work dash last week to try a problem put up by Chris Schulte called Qigong (V10) and was able to make a quick send.  You can see beta from Jaeger’s crush of the [...]

Jordan Shipman and Nate Draughn traveled to Horse Pens this past weekend to continue filming The Ronnie Dickson Project for Evolv.  It sounds like the trip was a great success and they were able to get a lot of footage of Ronnie crushing boulders.  I am really looking forward to the release of this video [...]

Yeah it’s not what you thought… but it’s nearly as good for all you route setters out there. I’m sure you will appreciate it. Let me paint the picture so that it makes sense: I was at the Heart of Steel setting for the competition in Boston and we had to strip a large section [...]

The weather in Colorado has been out of this world GOOD and I have been out taking advantage.  I went to Estes Park, the town just below Rocky Mountain National Park, on Saturday in search of Lumpy Ridge classics and new rocks to climb on.  Jonny Hork and I set out on a mission to [...]

Jaeger put together a quick video of out trip to Clear Creek last weekend.  The video includes my send of the Zion Dyno (V8) and Justin on Nomad Roof (V7).  Classic Sock Hands edit… I got out during the week and spent some time in Boulder Canyon cleaning the snow off my projects and taking [...]

Despite the occasional snow pile that just wont melt, I have been climbing a lot on the Front Range over the past week.  Eldorado Canyon and Clear Creek have been the go to spots for dry rock.  I put together a fun little video that I shot a couple weeks back with Ryan Silven and [...]

12 days of effort over 5 months has finally paid off!  I snagged the finish jug on Dark Waters (V12/13) in the bitter 20 degree cold and snow on Saturday morning.  What a relief, it’s finally over!  I have never worked harder for a boulder in my life and regardless of the grade it is [...]

I tricked Ben Spannuth into a quick session in the Flatirons on Sunday in hope of getting on Flesh Fest (V10) for the first time.  I have made 3 trips up to this boulder to try and tick it off “the list” and every time it has been covered in ice, water, or snow.  This [...]

Last weekend Ben Spannuth, Ryan Young and I headed out out to Eldorado Canyon on a mission.  We endured one of the hardest hikes in the Front Range to get up to Lost (V11), Suspension of Disbelief (V14/12), and Midnight Frightening (V10).  Ryan Young came along for support and to take some photos and I [...]

Here is the second installment of video from Farley in Western Massachusetts.  Speed of Life is a must do for any true bouldering connoisseur and it was my climbing duty to go to New England and tick off one of the life-timers.  I spent an hour cleaning ice and snow off the topout in 20 [...]

I had three goals when I went to Boston last week to set for the Heart of Steel. 1. Set incredible boulders the likes of which the world has never seen 2. Climb Speed of Life (V10) at Farley in Massachusetts 3. Climb Roses ad Blue Jays (V13) at Great Barrington Two of the three [...]

Well here is a whole pile of video footage from the Heart of Steel.  Finals for men and women are broken up by problem and gender.  Enjoy the show. I know I did. Super Pre Finals Final between Michael and Zeb Mens Fianal #1 Womens Final #1 Mens Final #2 Womens Final #2

The finals footage from SCS is edited and available right here!  Mens and Womens as separate videos!  Yay! I am in Boston preparing for the Heart of Steel at the Boston Rock Gym.  Prelims are nearly set and finals setting begins tomorrow.  This competition is really shaping up and the pre-registered strong men and women [...]

Hello! After a long and extremely scary drive to Salt Lake City from Boulder we made it in one piece, but not without some thrilling sports action on the road.  We hit some snow in western Utah and with Garrett, our trusty late night driver, behind the wheel we barreled down the road with reckless [...]

Here at Louder Than 11 we like video.  A LOT.  And there just so happens to be a lot of climbers out there shooting video these days.  Everyone had an HD camera and they are publishing free videos to the web at an alarming rate.  I have compiled a list of some high profile Vimeo [...]

If you haven’t heard, there is a HUGE competition going down in Boston on January 30th. Its called Heart Of Steel and its kind of a big deal.  If you want to make some cash and you want to make it rain in the gym then make sure you are here becasue this event is [...]

Louder Than 11 would like to present: Moore’s Wall ~ A Few Piedmont Classics Nate Draughn, Rami Annab, and Rodney Biddle explore some of the fine bouldering found at Moore’s Wall in Central, North Carolina.  Rodney has been climbing at Moore’s for many years and has been a major part of the hard bouldering development [...]

Well hello!  As you can probably tell, I have been extremely busy with life outside of climbing lately.  Blogging has been cast to the background and put on hold while real life has taken over. I was able to talk with Dustin Chambers, the man behind the legendary Boone climbing video Satisfaction, and convince him [...]

The long difficult wait is finally over!  The Men of Route Setting 2010 Calendar is here!  and for the discounted price of $1.99! Now you might find yourself wondering, “Why the balls is this limited edition calendar only $1.99!?”. The answer?  Its a freaking download that you can go and print out at your local [...]

Video from the Triple Crown!  Hound Ears.  Standard. I have been in Virginia for the past few days working at Rise Up and visiting the family in Charlottesville.  Laying low is nice for the holidays, especially knowing that there is a lot of training and work that needs to be done at the beginning of [...]

Here is a tasty Triple Crown tidbit left over from the 2010 round of Stone Fort.  Brion Voges sending King James (V10), Jeremy Walton doing Dragon Slayer (V12), and Donnovan Craig cruising Jerry’s Kids (V7). The past week has been a whirlwind of bad luck.  The New River GIANTS shoot has been cursed and bad [...]

An old classic from Rocky Mountain National Park, Deep Puddle Dynamics (V9) in Lower Chaos Canyon.  One of the best V9s around, tall, sustained, perfect.  Enjoy! As we speak, Louder Than 11 is gearing up for the second feature length video production.  We have GIANT plans for some climbing in the mother land of East [...]

More outtakes from Colorado Glow?!  No Way!!! Want your very own copy of Colorado Glow?  Well now you can have it.  Anytime you like in HD! Colorado Glow (for a limited time) – $2.99 – Buy Video Here!// < ![CDATA[ // < ![CDATA[ function EJEJC_lc(th) { return false; } // ]]> Run Time is 23 [...]

Hello friends. Here is another installment of Colorado Glow Outtakes delivered right to your computer thanks to Jordan Shipman.  You can find a FREE limited edition DVD of Colorado Glow at The Spot and The Boulder Rock Club in Boulder as well as Select areas in Charlotte, NC and Morganton, WVA, so go pick yourself [...]

A lesson in patience has been learned at the Dark Waters boulder in Clear Creek Canyon.  I have spent 5 trips out at the infamous roof and had continued success getting closer and closer to sending Dark Waters (V12/13).  Lucas Menegatti and I made a quick trip on Friday to try and finish up the [...]

Hello friends!  Jordan has put together some great outtakes from the green screen shots that we did for Colorado Glow.  You can watch them right up there.  My personal favorite is Carlo swimming through imaginary space and time.  Truly a priceless experience.  Also, be on the lookout for Digital Downloads of Colorado Glow in HD [...]

Hello Friends.  Here is the second installment of our Joe’s Valley trip last weekend.  In this video you will see Resident Evil (V10), Freak (V10), and the 4th ascent of The Masterpiece (V13).  Hope you like it! Me on Worm Turns (V10/11) late in the night (Photo Lucas Ménégatti) Carlo giving birth to a shadow [...]

This past weekend was a blur.  The huge snowstorm in Boulder had us packing for warmer and dryer climates and Joe’s Valley was calling our names. Dave Tucker, Nate Draughn, Brian Clevenger, and I all piled into my rig and we headed out with plans to meet up with Carlo Traversi, Alex Puccio, and Lucas [...]

There is 18″ of fresh powder in Louisville today and you know what that means…. Off to Joe’s Valley for the weekend.  We have a fairly huge crew consisting of Dave Tucker, Brian Clevenger, Nate D., Carlo, Puccio, Lucas, and myself.  It will be great… I’m starting to realize that training will have to start [...]

I’m sure that no one has been waiting for this but here are a few more from Boulder Canyon.  While you wait for that one to load I have some other interesting tid-bits for you to digest… I did an interview with Stikkit Magazine and it is on the site here if you care to [...]

So this is kind of a big deal. Colorado Glow is here.  Its live on Deadpoint Magazine, it is raging on Revolution Climbing’s website, making headlines on Friksn Clothing’s site, Killing it on the Project Holds website, and naturally it is running at full force on LouderThan11.com, Jon Glassberg.LouderThan11.com, and NateDraughn.LouderThan11.com… Please give us feedback [...]

Here is a collection of Boulder Canyon classics that we have been climbing on over the past freezing cold week.  Hope you like it.  Video includes Authentic Battle Damage (Stand) (V8), Replacement Killers (V11), and The Hug (V11). Nate on Witch Hunt (V10) A great new mix tape from Mary Anne Hobbs is out!  An [...]

Whats the best full value boulder problem in Front Range you ask?  Well I might have to say Black Ice (V10) at Fern Canyon in the heart of the Flatirons.  Perfect start holds to steep climbing with a very intimidating and high slab topout…  what more could you ask for.  My favorite so far.  I [...]

The alpine season is coming to an end in the next few weeks so a trip to Upper Chaos was necessary to finish off some business before the snow set in.  Nate, Jonny, and I headed to upper on Saturday with Mirkwood on the mind.  Mirkwood (V10), put up by Jamie a week or so [...]

The past seven days have been nothing short of crazy. That’s JJ, she is famous.  She has been on a blog and her name has been in a magazine… Last weekend the Spot hosted the first comp of the season, “The Gun Show”.  Preparation for the comp was a lot of work and we logged [...]

Louder Than 11 presents a Colorado bouldering epic with help from Dead Point Magazine, Friksn Clothing, Project Holds, and Revolution Climbing.  Jon Glassberg and Nate Draughn are climbing in the high country when they stumble upon a mysterious meteorite crash site.  They approach the impact zone to collect the debris and discover that the alien [...]

It has happened.  Fall is here.  Its time to take advantage.  Jonathan Siegrist says it best on his blog: “Fellow rock climbers living in the northern hemisphere… soon.. soon it is our time to shine. Our beloved fall season is just around the corner, do you know where your power is?!?! I know school just [...]

Boone, North Carolina is home to some of the Southeast’s finest bouldering and I was lucky enough to spend 7 years climbing there.  I compiled a list of the hardest boulders in Boone a few years back.  With inspiration from Jamie Emerson and his “Hard Boulders in Colorado” list I have decided to post the [...]

I am plastered all over The Spot in the new advertisement for the 2009-2010 Comp circuit.  You can see me there in the middle near the giant black death wings, this design screams Jim Horton… The first comp is coming up! September 26th!  Its gonna be really great and I will be setting along with [...]

Johnny Hork comes out of nowhere with a European Human Being (V12) slaughtering last week.  Johnny had worked the boulder a bit last season and with high hopes came back for round two and sent on his second attempt.  Barely even had time to break out the camera for this one.  Made it look easy…  [...]

A week in the 303 to take care of some business and that is just what happened. When you climb on alpine boulders all summer it is easy to get stuck in a routine and project everything and send nothing.  That is precisely what happened to me over the past few weeks.  With some free [...]

Punching Nate in the face makes me really happy.  So happy in fact that it inspired the newest installment to the already platinum collection, Nate Draughn Presents. Nate Draughn Presents: How to Take a Punch is truly the answer to all your prayers.  I encourage you to watch it…  No fake. I will have a [...]

Summer is officially over.  Students are back, its getting colder, “real life” is inevitably creeping up and taking over… This summer has been one of my favorites and of the past 25 I have experienced this has to be up there in the top 3.  I dug up some old footage of THE Brion Voges [...]

On August 29th Michael Tucker will be climbing Mt. Rainier in Washington with a group of mothers, scientists and rock musicians for a charity called CureDuchenne. Duchenne is a type of Muscular dystrophy. We can’t afford to be subtle. There’s just no time. We are fighting for the lives of the 20,000 boys who are [...]

Hello Everyone, The fall temps are right around the corner!  Its getting colder and the rock is getting sticky.  I headed up to The Park with Nate and Kirsten on Sunday with Riddles in the Park (v12) as the main goal.  After a bit of warming up and some time spent “remembering” the beta from [...]

Well we did it. 3 days of shooting 10 world class problems 4 locations 4 athletes 1 glowing story to tell Jordan Shipman and Donovan Craig made the pilgrimage to Boulder for an insane 3 day video shoot for the next Louder Than 11 production that will be coming out in October.  The boys got [...]

The past weekend at the park was a prosperous and satisfying experience.  I was able to finish off two of my projects that I had left from last year.  I was unable to get on either one of them until this weekend because of Trade Show insanity and massive piles of snow covering them. I [...]

Hello Boulderers, Last week Nate and I made the pilgrimage to the Hallett Boulder, located above Emerald lake in Rocky Mountain National Park.  This bloc is the one you see perched on the edge of a giant slope just below Hallett’s Peak, its massive, you can’t miss it.  Olson gave us a detailed map and [...]

Please divert your attention to the new blog roll that I have recently updated on the right side of the screen–> This new feature lets you see the most recent blog updates from your favorite blogging celebrities in order of most recent post.  This was a great feature that I had on my old blog [...]

Are you a climber chick, route setter hottie, climbing groupie, or just a regular old girl looking for eye candy?  If so I have something that may be of interest for you… The finest male route setting talent gathered at the Spot on Sunday to get oiled up, sprayed down, and immortalized in the first [...]

Are you a climber chick, route setter hottie, climbing groupie, or just a regular old girl looking for eye candy?  If so I have something that may be of interest for you… The finest male route setting talent gathered at the Spot on Sunday to get oiled up, sprayed down, and immortalized in the first [...]

Hello. The stress is building up and the needs are not being filled. The snow is still covering two of my projects and one has a huge ice lake at the bottom of it…. I did spend a lot of time searching for new music and came across some great stuff: She rocks my world… [...]

Hello. The stress is building up and the needs are not being filled. The snow is still covering two of my projects and one has a huge ice lake at the bottom of it…. I did spend a lot of time searching for new music and came across some great stuff: She rocks my world… [...]

There are piles of hard rock climbs in Colorado. It just so happens that the majority of that pile can be found in Chaos Canyon at Rocky Mountain National Park.  I love The Park and I always will… Climbing alone used to be a common thing for me in Boone. Hiking in three pads and [...]

You made it! Thanks for checking out the new blog.  You might have done so by accident when trying to access the old blog at jonglassberg.blogspot.com but now every time you go there you will be redirected here.  Don’t worry if you were an RSS subscriber or a follower of my blog, you have been [...]

You made it! Thanks for checking out the new blog.  You might have done so by accident when trying to access the old blog at jonglassberg.blogspot.com but now every time you go there you will be redirected here.  Don’t worry if you were an RSS subscriber or a follower of my blog, you have been [...]

Kirsten and Ina got here on Monday last week and it has been very busy. Lots of climbing and enjoying Boulder. I got a Hot new bouldering pad and bag from Josh at Organic as a promotional item through Project Holds. The pad is bright and flashy and displays the Project logo nicely. I did [...]

Kirsten and Ina got here on Monday last week and it has been very busy. Lots of climbing and enjoying Boulder. I got a Hot new bouldering pad and bag from Josh at Organic as a promotional item through Project Holds. The pad is bright and flashy and displays the Project logo nicely. I did [...]

I have been busy bouldering at Mt. Evans and Rocky Mountain the past few days and it has been very rewarding. Projects are falling quickly this year that shut me down last year. I have also been making progress on boulders I had previously been getting my ass kicked on. I love full household updates [...]

Brion Voges did No More Greener Grasses (V12) at Mt. Evans in about 10 minutes… Quite impressive. It has always been a goal of mine to do this problem. No More Greener Grasses is very pleasing to look at but a bit on the sharp side so hopefully i can get excited and stand on [...]

The Mammut Gravity Brawl in New Jersey and the Bouldering World Cup in Vail have come and gone and the flood gates have opened for videos from every problem and every angle. I just so happened to shoot some busch league, voyeuristic style footage of a few of the problems at each events finals so [...]

The Mammut Gravity Brawl in New Jersey and the Bouldering World Cup in Vail have come and gone and the flood gates have opened for videos from every problem and every angle. I just so happened to shoot some busch league, voyeuristic style footage of a few of the problems at each events finals so [...]

Brion Voges did No More Greener Grasses (V12) at Mt. Evans in about 10 minutes… Quite impressive. It has always been a goal of mine to do this problem. No More Greener Grasses is very pleasing to look at but a bit on the sharp side so hopefully i can get excited and stand on [...]

The Mammut Gravity Brawl in New Jersey and the Bouldering World Cup in Vail have come and gone and the flood gates have opened for videos from every problem and every angle. I just so happened to shoot some busch league, voyeuristic style footage of a few of the problems at each events finals so [...]

The Mammut Gravity Brawl in New Jersey and the Bouldering World Cup in Vail have come and gone and the flood gates have opened for videos from every problem and every angle. I just so happened to shoot some busch league, voyeuristic style footage of a few of the problems at each events finals so [...]

I have been in Boulder all of 5 days now and it has been a very productive 120 hours. The first order of business was to finish off some old beef with a problem in Boulder Canyon called Hard Boiled (V11). We went out on Tuesday and it ended up raining on us as we [...]

The past week has been absolutely wild. Florida, North Carolina, Virginia, New Jersey, New York City, Colorado… I Made a very long drive from Florida to New Jersey with a couple quick stops in between and ended up at the Gravity Brawl on Friday. The competition was very strong with a list of V12 climbers [...]

I have been living out of a car for the past week and I still have over a week ahead of me before I am off to Colorado to settle in. The following week includes Florida, North Carolina, Virginia, and New Jersey… I put in some extra time prepping the Rise Up climbing gym in [...]

Well… Back by popular demand is Kansas, a mysterious and devious woman, caught on Blackberry video breaking into my house and taking some Crank Forearm Fuel to the face. In keeping with the spirit of complete and total anarchy in Boone, last night I gave myself half a black eye when a misjudged moon bounce [...]

As graduation insanity builds and friends and enemies clash in drama-town, I can’t help but get sentimental about all the good times and all the crazy times that have been a part of my life here in Boone. 7 years is a long time for a dedicated boulderer to be stuck in one small mountain [...]

It is raining. Everywhere. A lot. I have been editing a lot of footage and training in the gym but moral is low after a week of straight rain and another week of it on the horizon. Here is a video of a couple classics at Blowing Rock. I have been getting a lot of [...]

This blog post will disappoint you if you are looking for rock climbers sending hard shit (Its a jungle out there) but I did get my hands on a $4000 lighting kit courtesy of Josh Lowel’s Dad…. Snapped some pics… We hosted a Jortz themed Alley Cat… I turned 25 today and it has been [...]

Jordan Shipman (LT11) was able to shoot some absolutely beautiful video last weekend at the New River Gorge… Here is a bit of a tease he sent me to get people amped for the short that is coming in May… I passed my Oral Comprehensive Exam and finished up the last of my projects so [...]

Here is a candid video i was lucky enough to catch of Nate talking about how humble he is… Signed a lease in Boulder! I hope your finger gets better soon Brion. 8B+ is not going to climb itself…

If its a personal project or a brand new line doing first ascents or finally completing that boulder that has been on your mind for years is quite satisfying. I am leaving Boone in three weeks so the pressure has been on to take care of a bit of unfinished business and leave my mark. [...]

I love rock climbing. I hate being pulled over by Parkway Police. I love airplane turbulence. There were a lot of people in town this weekend including Dave Tucker, Abby Pulsifer, John Gipson, and Dan Bates. It was great to take people out and show them some fun problems as well as getting to see [...]

Nate and I got back from Chattanooga late last night. I learned 3 important things on this trip: 1) all-you-can-eat sushi is not really that good (Go figure)… 2) Dogs still don’t like cats 3) Getting high on a boulder problem is what rock climbing is all about We rolled in on Friday and stayed [...]

The Remier of Satisfaction held on Tuesday was packed, lines out the door, no empty seats, and 100 guests. We raised over $300 for the Carolina Climbers Coalition and had a great time in the process. A huge thank you goes out to everyone that helped: Dustin Chambers Clay Hefner Pat Goodman Zachary Lesch-Huie Anthony [...]

Dave and I stumbled across gold yesterday while playing on The Hype Machine: J-Son, Baby Supreme and Glaciuz, are making hip hop history. They’re from Sweden. Apparently Stockholm is the new ATL. Check out “Dealer Shit” and let it take you over…. Asher Roth has a really good mix tape out called The Greenhouse Effect: [...]

Here is a video of a fantastic problem put up by Pat Goodman a few years back called Zen Corner (V8). Upper Lost Cove has some beautiful features and some of the better lines in Boone: Zen Corner (V8), Apocalypse Prow (V7), and Downward Dog (V9/10) to name a few… Also, if you are in [...]

I just got back from a long weekend in Charlottesville and Lynchburg Virginia. I was setting for a new gym called Rise Up that is owned by Dan Hague in Lynchburg. It was great to set with the new Climbit features and i think i was able to put up some really inspiring lines… These [...]

Nate Draughn has posted a new video of a trip to Jackson Falls in Southern Illinois. Jackson Falls has a nice collection of moderates and we were lucky enough to get some boulddering in on an icy morning… Body Karate is a beautiful ovrhung arete that sits under a huge roof and has excellent movement. [...]

I have been busy as hell lately in Boone with the whole Remer event we are throwing but i had a bit of time last night to finally put together a bit more footage from our Bishop trip. This video has Nate and I doing some of the classics at The Happy Boulders including Atari [...]

Brion Voges was in town last week and he made dreams come true in the High Country… So you were recently in Boone, NC and got to climb on some of the astonishing problems there… What was your first impression? New problems!! Growing up in Tennessee I heard a lot about the amazing climbing in [...]

Here is a quick tease for Satisfaction! Remiering on April 7th, 2008 at the Dragonfly Theater in Boone. Peep it:

The past few months have been non stop so a weekend at home was well over due… Brion Voges was in town all week cleaning up all the area test pieces and i have lots of footage to put up but the Vimeo account is tapped until Tuesday. It was great touring Brion around for [...]

I went out with Brion Voges and Nate yesterday and got on a couple of my favorite problems that I had put up in the past few years. The Great Roof and The Masochist… We warmed up at Grandmother and went to the Great Roof to get on The Masochist (V10). The Great Roof is [...]

Well here it is. A quick video about the Buttermilks from our trip to Bishop. A bunch of problems you have seen before but different people climbing on them… (kind of exactly like Mirando and Jimmy’s video) Nate and i were lost in the Bishop high country and shot some funny introduction stuff… at least [...]

I just got back from a trip to Southern Illinois and I’m nearly dead. The weekend flew by and many boulders were sent. We picked up Brion Voges on Friday afternoon in Knoxville and made our escape to Carbondale, Il to meet up with Jimmy Webb, Kasia Pietras, Scott Gross, Ryan Carl, and Nate Drolet. [...]

I went up to Grandmother yesterday with Nate to get some video of a fun dyno near the Long Wall area and I came up with an interesting little short. I ended up doing the move 5 times to get different angles and i think it turned out descent. Nate also sent the boulder with [...]

I think all this traveling is catching up to me. I have had a constant headache since Monday and despite OD-ing on delicious sugar coated Advil the sun still makes me wince… The next four weeks are packed with fun stuff (Southern Illinois, Bishop, setting) so I went home this weekend to take care of [...]

Im at war with a sinus infection so I have been surfing the net, reading, relaxing, and waiting… The Spirit of Apollo Then it happened and a little birdie whispered in my ear. N.A.S.A is the name and the album is The Spirit Of Apollo. Pay special attention on the Spank Rock track and be [...]

I’m headed to Raleigh, NC today to catch a flight to Manchester, NH to visit Gavin, Max, and Doug. The Heart of Steel Bouldering Competition is on Saturday and there is some descent money up for grabs as well as some potentially awesome finals rounds set up… The finals rounds are going to have cash [...]

Well… Back by popular demand is Kansas, a mysterious and devious woman, caught on Blackberry video breaking into my house and taking some Crank Forearm Fuel to the face. In keeping with the spirit of complete and total anarchy in Boone, last night I gave myself half a black eye when a misjudged moon bounce [...]

Just got home from a cold weekend in Chattanooga and a few warm nights snuggled up with a couple of fat ferrets at Kasia’s… Sunday I finished off Reflections (V10) at Little Rock City and Nate snatched up Cleopatra Cinderella Traverse (V9) on his first attempt of the day (natedraughn.blogspot.com). I am beginning to get [...]

Nate and I are back in Chattanooga and spent the day at Rocktown trying to finish off some boulders. The day was freezing with highs in the upper 20′s… We went back to Golden Harvest (V10) after a rough warm-up and I sent after a few tries. I have tried this line a few days [...]

Nate and I are back in Chattanooga and spent the day at Rocktown trying to finish off some boulders. The day was freezing with highs in the upper 20′s… We went back to Golden Harvest (V10) after a rough warm-up and I sent after a few tries. I have tried this line a few days [...]

I have been procrastinating for too long so here it is. Over the past year I have tried to take climbing more seriously and make it a priority in my life. I am a full-time graduate student at Appalachian State University in Graphic Arts and Imaging Technology and I work anywhere from 20-30 hours a [...]

I’m frantically trying to pack in some last minute training for ABS Nationals on Friday. I have been in the gym a lot lately and training hard and feeling good. The ABS running order looks intimidating as always and the goal is to make finals and not blow it in prelims. I leave today and [...]

I have been procrastinating for too long so here it is. Over the past year I have tried to take climbing more seriously and make it a priority in my life. I am a full-time graduate student at Appalachian State University in Graphic Arts and Imaging Technology and I work anywhere from 20-30 hours a [...]